Fresh Ricotta: FREE Virtual Cooking Class
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The Cheesemaking Process
Simply put, cheese making is the process of removing water from dairy milk. The first characteristic of a cheese is based on how much water is removed. Soft cheeses like cream cheese contain more water than a hard cheese like cheddar. Very dry cheeses like Parmesan, contain almost no water.
Milk is mostly water. Cow’s milk, for example, contains over 87% water by weight. What remains are the components of cheese: fat, protein, lactose and minerals. The cheese maker begins removing water from milk in a number of ways.
The simplest method is to add an acid such as lemon juice, buttermilk, or vinegar directly to the milk. A second method uses bacteria to create an acid in the milk. This is the preferred method because the bacteria also provides flavor and character to the finished product. In both methods the acid causes the milk protein to coagulate into curds, or the solid protein of milk.
The basic ingredients for making cheese are milk, starter culture and/or natural acids, and an enzyme like rennet to aid in separating proteins from water.
Cheesemaking Basics
When you start making cheese at home, begin with simple recipes for soft cheeses which require no aging. Some good cheeses to try are chevre (goat) cheese, cream cheese, crème fraiche, and yogurt.
Before you begin any cheese recipe, it’s important to sterilize all tools and equipment to prevent food safety issues and to keep cheesemaking bacteria from becoming contaminated. You can use your dishwasher to sterilize metal and glass tools or heat them in boiling water for 10 minutes. A mild bleach solution (one tablespoon bleach mixed with 1 gallon of water) is great for sterilizing surfaces. Hand wash your cheesecloth with a neutral detergent in cold water, rinse in sterilizing solution and air dry before using.
Since dairy products are the main ingredient in making cheese, buy the best quality you can afford. Pasteurized milk or cream usually works well but don’t use ultra-pasteurized products. The ultra-pasteurization process destroys the protein structure in the milk, making it impossible to use in cheesemaking. Read labels carefully but note that dairy distributors don’t have to label their products as pasteurized or ultra-pasteurized. The best way to tell is by checking the “sell by” date. If the date is three or more weeks from the purchase date, the milk is almost certainly ultra-pasteurized.
If your batch of cheese doesn’t work, try a different brand of milk or look for a source of local pasteurized milk so you can be sure that your milk is suitable for cheesemaking.
When making cheese, pay special attention to directions about time and temperature. A few degrees of variation can make a huge difference in the end product.
One of your most important tools is a reliable instant-read thermometer. If your thermometer has a dial, you can check the calibration by placing the probe in a glass of ice water. If the dial does not read “0” after a few minutes, turn the small nut under the dial to correct the gauge.
It’s important to use a large, heavy-bottomed, high-quality pot for heating milk during the cheesemaking process. A quality pot will help keep milk from scorching and ensure even heating.
For recipes where milk products are kept at specific temperatures for long periods of time, several methods can be used. Two options include placing your pot of milk in large sink of water and adding small amounts of boiling water or covering your pot with a clean towel and setting it on a heating pad, adjusting the temperature as needed. Try to keep the milk temperature 2 to 3 degrees above the specified temperature.
An excellent way to easily maintain a constant temperature is with a sousvide machine. The machine can maintain a constant water bath temperature within one degree for long periods of time. If you place your milk in a vacuum bag, do not seal the top of the bag. Air circulation during processing is critical for food safety purposes.
Techniques
Adding Starter Cultures - When whisking in starter cultures or a coagulant to the milk, use a long-handled whisk in an up and down motion at least twenty times, to ensure the rennet is fully distributed throughout the milk.
Cutting the Curds - To cut the curds evenly, use a 10-inch offset spatula or curd cutting knife as quickly as possible in vertical cuts all the way from the surface of the cheese to the bottom. It is suggested to cut vertically, then turn the pot on a 90-degree angle and make the cuts again.
Draining Curds - Place a strainer, lined with cheesecloth, over a bowl to capture the whey. Gently ladle the curds into the strainer, and let the curds drain until almost dry. Discard the whey and reserve it for another use.
Make a Draining Sack - Line a colander with damp cheesecloth and gently ladle the curds into it. Tie two opposite corners of the cheesecloth into a knot, close to the surface of the curds. Repeat with the other two corners. Place a wooden spoon under the knots and suspend the bag over a bowl to allow for the excess liquid to be caught.
Buttermilk Ricotta
Yield: about 15 to 18 ounces
12 cups whole milk, see Cheesemaking Basics
1 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt or kosher salt
3 cups buttermilk, preferably whole milk
1 package cheesecloth
Place the milk in heavy, 4-quart or larger stockpot and set over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring almost constantly, until the milk comes to a frothing boil. Turn off the heat and, as the bubbling subsides, stir in the salt and buttermilk. Continue gently stirring in one direction until the curds and whey separate. (The mixture, at this point, will resemble thickened buttermilk. The whey will still look milky and the curds will be very small.) Remove from the stove and let sit, undisturbed, for about 5 minutes.
Carefully ladle the curds and whey into the cheesecloth over a large strainer or colander. (The whey will drain into the bowl. Save for another use or discard.) Leave the curds in the strainer to drain for about 15 to 30 minutes, depending on the desired consistency. Use immediately or store in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.
Chef Stacy Tip: For a richer, creamier cheese, replace part of the milk with 1/2 to 1 cup cream or half-and-half.
Do Before Class:
Weigh and measure all recipe ingredients
Have tools and equipment within reach
Review recipes and have questions ready!
Equipment List:
Heavy, 4-quart or larger stockpot
Large strainer or colander
Small strainer, optional
Scissors
Cheesecloth
Cooking twine, optional
Ladle
Shopping List:
12 cups (96 oz) whole milk, pasteurized (see Cheesemaking Basics)
Cream or Half-and-Half? (See Chef Stacy Tip_
2 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt or kosher salt
3 cups (24 oz) buttermilk, preferably whole milk
1 package cheesecloth
Bread and fixings for your ricotta
Bonus Recipe:
Lemon Ricotta Cookies
Yield: about 2 dozen
2 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon fine sea salt or kosher salt
4 ounces unsalted butter, softened
2 cups granulated sugar
2 large eggs, room temperature
15 ounces Buttermilk Ricotta Cheese (see recipe)
6 tablespoons lemon juice, divided
4 large lemons, zested, divided
1-1/2 cups powdered sugar, sifted
Preheat the oven to 375-degrees F. In a medium mixing bowl combine the flour, baking powder, and salt. Set aside.
In the bowl of a stand mixer, add the butter and the sugar. Using the paddle attachment beat light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add the eggs, 1 at a time, beating until incorporated. Add the ricotta cheese, 3 tablespoons of lemon juice, and half the lemon zest. Beat to combine. Remove the bowl from the stand mixer and stir in the reserved dry ingredients.
Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper or a silicone mat. With a half-ounce potion scoop or ice cream scoop, spoon the dough onto the baking sheets. Bake for 15 minutes or until slightly golden at the edges. Remove from the oven and let the cookies rest on the baking sheet for 20 minutes.
Meanwhile to make the glaze, combine the confectioner’s sugar, the remaining lemon juice and zest in a small mixing bowl and stir until smooth. Once cooled, drizzle the glaze onto the cookies and let harden for about 1 hour.